Nightwood: Casting light on Lower West Side dining
Among the small framed houses and red brick shops dating to the late 1800s is a storefront restaurant that beautifully blends in with Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood both in food philosophy and design.
Perhaps named for Djuna Barnes' lyrical novel, Nightwood restaurant is yet one more art element that is changing the face of this Lower West Side enclave. Owners Jason Hammel and Amalea Tshilds who also run Chicago's acclaimed Lula, opened Nightwood in May 2009 to gasps and awe. The handwritten menu changes daily depending on the availability of market-fresh ingredients, and the food, mostly organic, is simple but robust with flavor.
Chef Jason Vincent's interpretations are classic with a twist and never-overbearing. The restaurant, designed by Kevin Heisner and Matt Eisler, in some mystical way, matches the food. At first glance rustic, the exposed brick walls and light wood beamed ceilings become the perfect backdrop to Vincent's not-quite-minimalist entrees. Everything is open at Nightwood, including the kitchen, where watching the food being prepared on a wood-fired grill is akin to good theater. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the front of the restaurant bring in plenty of natural light, while the spacious covered outdoor cafe boasts a gas burning fireplace.
It's slightly difficult to put a finger on exactly why Nightwood works so well. That mystery is quite intended. Hammel and Tshilds were wise in knowing that food is not separate from its environment.
"Nightwood is a natural progression from Lula,"said Hammel. "It is a very small space, so we spread our wings a little bit, creating food for different audiences, and it is Lula grown up. The daily changing menu is a huge point, realizing what our craftspeople and farmers are going to have available that day, and using the ingredients at their peak in a simple style of cooking is what sets us apart. Why did we choose Pilsen? It's a super cool neighborhood and we didn't want to end up in downtown with the throngs."
Appetizers may include items such as wood grilled sardines with grilled sweet and spicy peppers or a fresh plum salad. Entrees, including organic trout most often come from Midwest fisheries. Spit roasted chicken and a Nightwood burger are standards on the dinner menu, but everything else changes.
The brunch menu changes weekly and something as simple as poached eggs arrive with fresh berry jam, tots (something like a very elegant tater tot) and fresh bread (try the rye) is more than filling. Be sure to order a Nightwood fresh berry poptart. The pasty dough is light and flaky, hinting of butter. The berry filling, depending on the berry in season, is blended lightly with cream cheese.
Price-wise, Nightwood falls in the middle range, with appetizers ranging from $8 to $12 and entrees top at $25.
As Pilsen continues to gentrify, Nightwood's ability to walk both sides of the fence is an achievement. Through insight, talent, excellent food and an obviously nod to the community in which it's chosen to reside, Nightwood has shed not only light on this textured Chicago neighborhood. It gently fit in.
Posted by Lori Rotenberk
