Bistro Bordeaux: Authentic French cuisine
From the symbol of a little boy running down the street taken by post-World War II photographer Willy Ronis to the arch of hard-boiled eggs on the bar, Bistro Bordeaux is authentically French, even down to its owner.
Rated as one of Chicago's best new restaurants, this small Evanston cafe is booked nightly, the draw both the attentive service and fresh take on traditional bistro fare.
Owner Pascal Berthoumieux, blending his management and culinary training, debuted Bistro Bordeaux in December 2009. A native of Bordeaux, Berthoumieux hired Chef Frank Mnuk (NYC's Eleven Madison Park, California's French Laundry and Bouchon) whose cooking philosophy includes "allowing ingredients to taste like themselves" and has a gift for using food "at its flavorful peak" with his role being a "conduit between the Earth and Guest."
Chef Mnuk's approach, paired with Berthoumieux's exactness is nothing short of perfection. Hors D'Oeuvres include Soup de Jour, Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard and Rillettes de Saumon. The stacked bibb lettuce salad with champagne vinaigrette, Coeur de Laitue salad, is as delicate tasting as its flower-bloom shape. Classic bistro entrees such as Steak Frites Bistro Bordeaux (steak and fries–the fries tagged the best in the city), Poulet Roti pour Deux (whole roasted free range chicken for two), Truite sauvage au haricot vert & vinegarette aux noisettes (wild caught Russian river trout) and Gnochi Parisien aux Legumes de Printemps (French style gnocchi) are house favorites.
Prefering smaller, family owned wineries, boutique vintners make up the wine list. Well-versed in the cellar, servers are tops at helping you choose.
Berthoumieux recently began a Sunday Brunch that is rapidly becoming as popular as the bistro's dinners. You will find the Pain Perdu aux Pommes, an amazing light and airy brioche French toast with caramelized apples and the Bistro Bordeau Eggs Benedict, far surpass traditional brunch offerings elsewhere.
Finally, this dining spot glows with atmosphere. From the mustard colored walls to Berthoumieux helping wait tables, the setting is unpretentious. Consider that in homage to his deeply loved grandfather, Berthoumieux bedecked among vintage French posters on the walls black and white photos, wood working tools and wine bottle labels from important family occassions–all belonging to his grandfather. Looking at the framed labels, Berthoumiex said he can look at them and with much love, remember a particular dinner, birth or family holiday. That same feeling swells in Bistro Bordeaux–from Mnuk's love of the earth to Berthoumieux's wish to give patrons a little taste of home.
Posted by Lori Rotenberk
