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Bistro Bordeaux

Address: 618 Church Street
Pricing: Entrees from $16
Phone: (847) 424-1483
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30 pm-9 pm; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 pm to 10 pm; Sunday, 5 pm to 9 pm and Sunday Brunch, 10:30 am to 2 pm; Closed Monday.
How To Get There:
From Chicago take the Edens to the Dempster East exit. Make a left at Ridge Ave., heading North. Make a right at Church Street and continue East. Bistro Bordeaux is on the South side of the street, shortly before Chicago Avenue.
Parking:
Valet, metered street, and lot parking available.
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Bistro Bordeaux: Authentic French cuisine

Jul 16, 2010

From the symbol of a little boy running down the street taken by post-World War II photographer Willy Ronis to the arch of hard-boiled eggs on the bar, Bistro Bordeaux is authentically French, even down to its owner.
Rated as one of Chicago's best new restaurants, this small Evanston cafe is booked nightly, the draw both the attentive service and fresh take on traditional bistro fare.

Owner Pascal Berthoumieux, blending his management and culinary training, debuted Bistro Bordeaux in December 2009. A native of Bordeaux, Berthoumieux hired Chef Frank Mnuk (NYC's Eleven Madison Park, California's French Laundry and Bouchon) whose cooking philosophy includes "allowing ingredients to taste like themselves" and has a gift for using food "at its flavorful peak" with his role being a "conduit between the Earth and Guest."

Chef Mnuk's approach, paired with Berthoumieux's exactness is nothing short of perfection. Hors D'Oeuvres include Soup de Jour, Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard and Rillettes de Saumon. The stacked bibb lettuce salad with champagne vinaigrette, Coeur de Laitue salad, is as delicate tasting as its flower-bloom shape. Classic bistro entrees such as Steak Frites Bistro Bordeaux (steak and fries–the fries tagged the best in the city), Poulet Roti pour Deux (whole roasted free range chicken for two), Truite sauvage au haricot vert & vinegarette aux noisettes (wild caught Russian river trout) and Gnochi Parisien aux Legumes de Printemps (French style gnocchi) are house favorites.

Prefering smaller, family owned wineries, boutique vintners make up the wine list. Well-versed in the cellar, servers are tops at helping you choose.

Berthoumieux recently began a Sunday Brunch that is rapidly becoming as popular as the bistro's dinners. You will find the Pain Perdu aux Pommes, an amazing light and airy brioche French toast with caramelized apples and the Bistro Bordeau Eggs Benedict, far surpass traditional brunch offerings elsewhere.

Finally, this dining spot glows with atmosphere. From the mustard colored walls to Berthoumieux helping wait tables, the setting is unpretentious. Consider that in homage to his deeply loved grandfather, Berthoumieux bedecked among vintage French posters on the walls black and white photos, wood working tools and wine bottle labels from important family occassions–all belonging to his grandfather. Looking at the framed labels, Berthoumiex said he can look at them and with much love, remember a particular dinner, birth or family holiday. That same feeling swells in Bistro Bordeaux–from Mnuk's love of the earth to Berthoumieux's wish to give patrons a little taste of home.
 



- by Lori Rotenberk , Chicago Reporter for HelloMetro  (Click to leave a message)

Lori Rotenberk

Lori Rotenberk graduated from Drake University and is a Chicago-based journalist whose work has appeared in The Boston Globe, Newsweek and various magazines. She worked as a staff reporter on The Chicago Sun-Times, the suburban section of The Chicago Tribune and The Des Moines Register. In addition, she has studied fiction writing in adult education at the University of Chicago.
"We employ our own Local professional journalists (not bloggers) to give you an accurate hyperlocal story"





 

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Click Images To Enlarge
Coeur de Laitue, a bib lettuce salad with champagne vinaigrette and fresh herbs. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Bistro Bordeaux's Soup du Jour, cold asparagus soup. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Tarte du Jour, a mix of eggs, herbs and fine cheeses. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Wild caught Russian River Troute. Truite sauvage au haricot vert & vinaigrette aux noisettes. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Sterling Silver Ranch Faux Filet, Polenta, Jus naturel, ranch ribeye, polenta, chard, pearl onions and green olives in a natural beef juice. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Photo's of owner Pascal's grandfather, Pierre Barland are displayed in the bistro. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Pascal has framed vintage wine labels kept by his grandfather, Pierre Barland. Each label, Pascal said, represents a special occasion in their family. Photo by Lori Rotenberk
With both table and banquette seating, the bistro walls are filled with French posters and wood working tools belonging to the owner's grandfather. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Evanston's intimate Bistro Bordeaux has been named one of Chicago's best new restaurants. Photo courtesy of Bistro Bordeaux.
The bistro and French cafe tradition of serving hard boiled eggs continues at the bar. Photo courtesy of Bistro Bordeaux.
Pain Perdu aux Pommes, brioche french toast with caramelized apples. Photo courtesy of Bistro Bordeaux.
Steak Frites Bistro Bordeaux, the classic steak and fries. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Bistro Bordeaux's interpretation of Eggs Benedict. Photo courtesy of Bistro Bordeaux.
Escargots de Bourgogne en Croute, Burgundy snails braised in herb butter and served with puff pastry. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.
Coquille Saint Jacques au Veloute de Mais Doux, seared diver scallops. Photo by Lori Rotenberk.




 



     
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